17 October 2007

Molecular Gastronomy

Apparently, I did not get the memo that the term "molecular gastronomy" has been disavowed by some of the people most closely associated with it. They want to be thought of as pioneering chefs and food writers, not part of some fad. When the final tally is made, I'm pretty sure they're going to be thought of as both pioneering and faddish. I am glad, though, that this detachment allows Herve This to go on with his important work, which is much closer to Cooks Illustrated than to WD-50 or El Bulli. Using science to break through long-held prejudices is a noble profession, as is using new techniques and ingredients to make a meal more interesting. They're just not very close to each other.

I was disappointed that these luminaries, in dissing the term "molecular gastronomy" also felt the need to diss its coiner, Herve This, and to obliquely look down their noses at his work, by not referring to him by name and complimenting him on taking down some long-held fallacies.

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