"...said Charlie Kleinman, chef of Wexler’s, a new restaurant doing creative takes on Southern food, like Barbecue Scotch Eggs (soft-poached eggs coated in short-rib burnt ends, deep fried, and served with sweet pea gastrique and hot sauce)."
From this article in the Times.
Weighing in on the subject of the article itself, the difference here is between "produce" and "culture". In SF, it seems the raw materials outshine the food culture, but as anywhere, there's always more going on than the press sees, or than the blogs cover. It's just what gets your attention.